We drove into The Gambia with the Belgiums we’d met at Toubakouta Campment following us as we had the GPS coordinates for Sukuta Camping but first we had to cross the Gambia River! The ferry is notorious for being a very long wait so we’d come prepared with bottled water and books. It didn’t look too bad when we arrived and drove to the queue to find four cars in front of us, however, we were told by an official that we were not likely to get on the ferry for at least four hours or so unless we’d like to give him a gift to help the process along... we don’t give gifts (our motto is: just say no to ‘cadeau’!) so we said we’d wait. The crack was that the gates would open and let the number of cars that would fit onto the ferry into the holding area but only once the previous ferry has left. We were behind the gates by four cars – what we didn’t allow for were all the officials, government guys etc who jumped the queue! Mind you, it was fun watching everyone trying to sell us stuff, having to climb up the lorry and then give a whole load of speal about how nice to meet us, where we from, would we like a gift etc. It took two hours to get onto the ferry and an hour to get over the 3 miles of water!!
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Beautiful sails billow as the pirogue makes its way up the Gambian River.
Click on image to enlarge. |
Arriving at Sukuta Camping (13,25.17N: 16,42.93W) was an interesting experience! The surly girl behind the desk told us the bare minimum, didn’t smile once and looked totally confused when we asked if the water was drinkable and if we could hook up the Mog. We’d been having trouble with the leisure batteries holding their charge (or so we thought at the time) and needed to hook up to the electricity to be able to run the fridge, lights etc. We didn’t get any answers so wandered off to the place she roughly pointed out as our pitch. Turns out that the water was good enough to fill our empty tanks but the site runs on solar power so we couldn’t hook up. What the unfriendly and certainly unreceptive owner actually said was, “No chance ... we don’t have electric.” When we asked if there was anyone who could check our batteries for us he was even less helpful!!!
After a noisy night we were looking at moving but after mentioning the charging problem to the Belgiums they leapt into action!! Suddenly I had three overall clad guys clambering about over the Mog! It turned out the problem was the alternator had failed. Not only had they diagnosed the problem but they were able to supply another alternator AND fix it!! They were driving a 20 year old Ford Escort and had brought along a load of spares – one item was a spare alternator which, with some adaption, now works! We took them out for a slap up supper to “The Butcher’s Shop” which was delicious and very filling.
Unhappy with Sukuta Camping we moved on and after trudging around the real estate agencies we found a great place at Luigis Holiday Apartments. (13,27.22N: 16,42.98W). They are so friendly and helpful – we hired an apartment for two weeks so we could have a total rest and muck out the lorry after eight months on the road – they opened the back gates and let us park the Mog up inside the compound, charge our depleted batteries (both the Mog and ours!), changed money for us and provide advice on where to buy various necessities. The staff were wonderful and, as it’s only 50 metres from the beach, it’s in a great location – although we hardly moved from the pool! We did manage to go and see the resident masseuse and beauty therapist – Anna – who worked wonders on our backs and managed to make my feet poolside presentable again!
We did manage to struggle out of our laziness and go out for the day. We hired Levi and his trusty, if rather dilapidated, taxi for the day and drove out to see the Paper Recycling Project which I would recommend anyone to visit. The project was started by an English woman but it is now a registered Gambian charity. They collect paper from the hotels, recycle it into lovely books which they sell to tourists and with the money raised they buy school books, pens and exercise books which they distribute to local schools for free.
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After the recycling project we went to the Crocodile Pool – a sacred pool where the sleepy crocs are supposed to bring fertility to the women who receive a small bottle of the stagnant waters... yum!! We met Charlie, the daddy of all the crocs, who was resting in the shade after a hard day doing nothing. |
On the way out we noticed this very polite sign someone had sprayed onto their wall... Click to open any image |
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Sitting on our balcony we would watch a guy collecting palm sap which he ferments into palm wine – a sweet and slightly alcoholic drink that has a very short shelf life... mind you, I don’t think the locals object to having to drink it quickly! It’s very strange for us after spending so long in strict Muslim countries to find local Muslims being so relaxed about their religion and customs – really refreshing. |  |
The only problem with this part of the Gambia are the husslers - or Bumsters as they are called locally. Every time you walk out from the hotel they are immediately trying to sell you something, drive you somewhere or provide you with some service (legal and illegal!). If you reply that you want to be left alone they tell you that you are being unfriendly, if you are polite they hang about for hours, if you are friendly they give you a gift then ask for a bigger gift (usually money) in return, if you ignore them totally they call after you saying ‘don’t you talk to local people’. I walked to the shop one morning and, after being hassled by one guy for 10 minutes, was told to smile more!! I replied that I would smile if he went away... which he did! They are not threatening and the crime rate, apart from petty theft and pick-pocketing, is extremely low. You are more likely to be conned than mugged – especially during the day.
One thing that is apparent is the sex tourism. White guys with pretty young girls: black guys with old ladies. Each trying to make some money or get a passport outta here. Each saying they have a child that needs sponsoring though school – but most have several sponsors sending money, each thinking they are the only one paying for the child! Still... if you know what you’re getting into and are ok with it – is there a problem?
After lazing about for two weeks we climbed back into the Mog and pointed it north back to the ferry – we were bound for Georgetown.... catch up with us there on the next update!